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March 25, 2000
The Good Bridge Player and Bid and Play With me
The Scorecard is the publication for ACBL District 16. I was asked and consented to write
a regular column aimed at the 0-299 masterpoint player. I will post my columns here as
they may be of benefit to the same readers that benefit from my newsletter.
Scorecard, Volume 32, No 2 - March/April 2000
My good friend, Donna Compton, asked me to be the 299er editor for the Scorecard. Without
a lot of questions I agreed. Later it came to me, "Just what is a 299er Editor?"
Without knowing for sure what was intended, the purpose of this column will be to try and
address the issues that can have a positive effect on the game of those players in the
range of 0 to 299 masterpoints. That is a very wide range. Some topics that are
appropriate for the 5 masterpoint player, will not be appropriate for the 250 masterpoint
player. On the other hand, in my years of teaching both beginning and intermediate
students, I have observed that most players in the 0-299 group are missing at least part
of the basics. It is these fundamental concepts that I will cover.
So, if you think a particular topic is below your level, I say read it. Just don't tell
your friends. Also, if you are looking to learn to recognize and execute a Winkle squeeze
or learn the Canary Club, then this column is not for you. Go buy a book. I welcome
criticism, both positive and negative. You are not really talking about competitive bridge
unless you have some disagreement. The preferred method is by e-mail ([email protected]), so let me hear
from you.
What makes a good bridge player? Good is relative term. Everyone cannot be a world
champion, but everyone can be better tomorrow than they are today. All it takes is effort
and time. By time I do not mean hours and days, but time in terms of numbers of hands.
Experience is best measured in hands played and not hours spent. Playing once a month for
30 years is the same number of hands as everyday for 1 year. I think there are three basic
ingredients to a good bridge player:
Discipline
This may be the toughest element of the three. Bridge is a game of percentages. We play a
suit or bid a hand in a particular way, not because we expect it to generate the desired
result every time, but because it will generate the desired result the maximum number of
times possible. We bid to the game level with 25 or 26 points because we expect to be
successful more often than not (>50% success and <50% failure). If you have doubts
about that being a winning strategy, then think about Las Vegas. It was built 400 miles
out in the middle of the desert on the same basic principle. Be disciplined in your
bidding and play. Play the hand using the available clues and the known strategies. If you
and partner have agreed to open weak two bids with two of the top three honors then you
must pass when dealt (AJ10764
8
J64
632). If you do not like the agreement, by all means change it,
but until then abide by it to the letter. There are three other players at the table and
only one is one your side. Being able to absolutely count on him/her is crucial and comes
only through discipline.
Self Confidence
Self doubt is a cruel demon. It is true in our sport as well as all of the others. If you
do not believe in yourself then your judgment is clouded. When I first started to play
duplicate bridge I attended a national tournament in Chicago. I over heard a top rated
player talking to his prot�g�, "Look at that line of people buying entries. Did you
know that over 80% of them do not believe that they can win? You know what else? They are
right!" Something happens to inexperienced players when they sit down to play against
better competition. They start doing things that they know are not in their best interest.
They have already admitted defeat and sub-consciously make sure that it happens. If you
find yourself in 3NT and need a successful finesse to make the contract then by all means
take the finesse. As much as you may doubt it, the odds of a successful finesse (or suit
break, or any thing else) are the same irrespective of your opponents. The greater your
confidence, the greater your success rate. Everyone has heard the tale of the novice on
lead against the club expert in a 6NT contract and holding two aces. When asked why she
did not double, she replied, "No way, not against him. He always finds a way to make
it!"
Practice
If you are going to advance your game then practice is required. No more pushing cards or
coasting. Every hand is important. Home game, club game, sectional tournament, regional
tournament, or national tournament it does not matter. Good game or bad game it does not
matter. New partnership or old partnership it does not matter. Each and every hand that
you bid and play must be done with your full effort and attention. There is something to
be learned each time you play. Come away from every session with a self-lesson. Pick a
hand on which you did poorly and ask yourself, "What could I or should I have done
differently?" Look at the recap sheet and see what the winning scores were on that
hand. Did you compete too aggressively? Were you too conservative? If you cannot determine
for yourself, then find a more experienced player and ask. Put the time with your chosen
mentor to good use. Have the hand(s) written out with spades, hearts, diamonds, clubs
clearly labeled (in that order please). Write down the bidding including all passes.
Effective practice and feedback is critical to developing your game. If you suddenly
realize that you are not putting in full effort, then stop and take a moment to collect
you thoughts. Anything else is a waste. Focus on your game and let partner worry about
them self. Finding fault with partner does nothing to improve your game. Discipline, self
confidence, and practice are absolutely fundamental to building a strong game. Without
them you are lost.
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Bid and Play With Me
Here Here is an interesting hand. Sitting South you pick up:
South |
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20 HCP plus a five card suit.
The auction proceeds:
West | North | East | South |
Pass | 1![]() |
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Pass | 2![]() |
Pass | ??? |
A hand with practically all positives.
Is slam a possibility?
At the very minimum partner must have either the A or
KQ of diamonds. Without either you
have two quick diamond losers and slam is out of the question. You also have a spade loser
unless partner has the
A. If partner does not hold the
K you have a 50% chance of a trump
loser. 3 1/2 potential losers and partner will have to cover at least 2 of them to make 6
a 50-50 bet!
For example, if partner had the A and the
A you will likely lose one diamond
(after a diamond lead) and will now only make 6
if the trump finesse works. Add to all of this,
there is the unlikely (but possible) club loser. Slam does not appear to be odds on unless
partner is a maximum with mostly aces and kings.
How can we ask partner?
Game tries to the rescue!
Game tries you ask? Aren't we wondering about slam? What do game tries have to do with it?
Watch and learn ...
You must learn to think of responder's bids (Captain!) as TOOLS. Use the tools properly
and you will find out what you need to know.
If you make a game try (2, 2NT, 3
, 3
, and 3
are all "game tries") and partner declines, then
you can rest assured that slam is not in the cards. Partner would accept any game try that
will give you a play for 6
. Go back and look at what is required for slam.
Game tries were covered in detail in Issue #8.
3 won't
work for our purposes since partner would decline by passing. For all other game tries
partner declines acceptance by returning to three of the agreed trump suit (3
in our
case).
3 is the
best choice.
The auction continues:
West | North | East | South |
Pass | 1![]() |
||
Pass | 2![]() |
Pass | 3![]() |
Pass | 3![]() |
Pass | ??? |
Partner rejected our game try. Clearly slam is out of the question. It is time to let partner know that in fact it was a "slam try" not a "game try".
West | North | East | South |
Pass | 1![]() |
||
Pass | 2![]() |
Pass | 3![]() |
Pass | 3![]() |
Pass | 4![]() |
Pass | Pass | Pass |
Continue on to game after partner declines the invitation. The only explanation is that
your original intentions were slam not just game! West leads the 2 and dummy
comes into view:
North |
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South |
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Contract: 4
Opening lead: 2
Just make your contract, overtricks are not important. Stop and plan the play.
Your contract is 4 and you can afford three losers. You need ten tricks. Clearly the decision
not try for slam was the correct one. You are off two quick diamonds. Potential losers
(count with respect to declarer's hand):
0 spades
1 heart
2 diamonds
1 club
You will need to dispose of at least one of these losers in order to make 4. What are
the options?
Trumping the club in dummy appears as the best choice. What is the safest way to trump
a club? How many clubs do you need to trump?
You need to trump only one club and will need only one heart in dummy with which to trump
it. Ideally you should play trumps twice before cashing two top clubs and then trumping
the small club in dummy.
How can you play trumps exactly twice?
If you cash the A and play another, the defenders may win the
K and play a third round to keep you
from trumping a club.
If you leave too many trumps outstanding, the defenders may work out a way to trump the
FOURTH club (your good trick!).
The spade lead is tempting. You might ride the spade to your hand (winning the J unless RHO
plays the
Q in which case you win the
K). Now when you cash the remaining
spade honor, the
A in dummy is potentially available for a discard.
The spade is a red herring.
Win the A.
Play a heart finessing the Q.
If this loses to the K, the best the defenders can do is play a second round of hearts (leaving one
in dummy for the club ruff).
If the finesse wins. Cash the A and proceed to trump the club.
After trumping the club, return to hand with the spade and finish with trumps.
This line of play is very high. I estimate over 80%.
General lesson to be learned:
Pulling trumps is the highest priority. Only leave trumps outstanding when you must and
then leave outstanding the fewest number possible.
Complete hand:
North | ||
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West | ![]() |
East |
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South | ![]() |
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If you trump the club loser before pulling trump. look at what happens:
Win the spade. Cash two top clubs. Trump the losing club. Now play trumps. Even if you
play the A
and another, when West wins the
K this is the position. The defender's have won one trick (
K) and West
is on lead:
North | ||
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West | ![]() |
East |
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South | ![]() |
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LHO leads the J which RHO trumps. Now two diamond tricks sets you one!
Thanks!
Gary King